• Zeïna M. Christ

Ready-to-Wear Fashion Week Review (1st part)

Updated: Mar 8, 2019



Jacquemus


photos by Instagram @jacquemus


This week, Jacquemus presented his Fall / Winter collection of ready to wear.

Named in honor of the French cinema, « La Collectionneuse » (meaning « The Collector ») took place at the Paris Event Center, transformed into "Place Jacquemus."


Colored walls, bakery and florist stand, expanded linen provided the backdrop for a fresh and colorful collection that reveals the designer’s inspiration. Each look represents the mix of three disparate fields of interest: modernist design, objects of personal value, and bold and expressive color.


The wardrobes of the collection sway between purity and geometric rigor in a neutral palette, almost summery, very Mediterranean but not only.

"Do not reduce me to the Mediterranean" - Simon Porte Jacquemus


Almonds or baby pictures in glass earrings, mini bags, really mini or oversized pockets, with Jacquemus we are never far to discover something quirky and fun. It's simply cheerful.


Some looks explode in color with shocking pink, intense green or electric blue. The silhouettes are comfortable and comforting with wraparound coats. The stylist multiplies the details trompe l'oeil with clothes that open on other clothes such an infinite fashion. White, sunflower yellow, royal blue, emerald green, fuchsia, orange, ... no doubt, the Jacquemus parade was a refreshing escapade in the South of France.






Dior


Getty Images


At the heart of the Rodin Museum in Paris, the artistic director of the house Christian Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri, presented feminine & strong silhouettes, with a lot of paces.


The feminist atmosphere was palpable. Designed by artist Bianca Pucciarelli Menna and Tomaso Binga. The walls of the Rodin Museum were adorned with images of naked female bodies, formed into every letter of the alphabet for the Dior Fall / Winter 2019-2020 show.


The collection featured elements of heavy buffalo plaid fabrics, an extensive amount of hats, and of course, tulle skirts and dresses. Chiuri's reoccurring theme of slogan tees also made a comeback, in addition to the juxtaposition of menswear and womenswear.


On the podium also, references to the sixties fashion showcasing cross stitch, embroidery and, more broadly, crafts.

A meticulous blend of art, fashion, and history were combined in this collection. Several prints ran through the Dior pieces; check, tartan, a lot of gingham.


House Dior had a self-retrospective on it's past and Mr. Diors heritage. Many references to former art directors of the brand such as John Galliano with the Saddlebag, reinvented into different formats.






Marine Serre


Photos by Marine Serre


Hooded or protected by gas masks, the models evolve in an apocalyptic universe: the young French designer Marine Serre imagined a world after the ecological crises where the fashion passes by the recycling.


Equipped with an oyster shell as an invitation, guests at the parade on the second day of Fashion Week Paris, walk in a tunnel of green light to join the wine cellars in the heart of chalk in Issy-les-Moulineaux. A place far from the traditional fashion districts, south-west of Paris.


The collection called "Radiation" is a reflection on a world where "ecological crises and climate wars destroy the remains of civilization as we know it," according to the presentation note.


The cloakroom, a "radical and fragile" streetwear style, is composed of tight-fitting body-hugging bodysuits, a trademark of the 27-year-old stylist. The collection featured gas masks with matching tartan dresses and ensembles, as well as coats of superhero or a neon yellow space suit.


Green, pink and red bring a little optimism to cold caves. The silhouettes are dynamic and close to the body. The ponchos created out of recycled blankets, "hybrid" dresses in old scarves, a tight black dress covered with shells.


"The apocalypse can be positive to stimulate creation, shells or driftwood; it costs nothing… It is a huge challenge to be sustainable, the team works on this aspect: recycle, do it correctly and for that to look perfect in the shops, " explained the creator.






Koché


Photos by Numéro


The Accor hotel Arena, accustomed to sports and popular events, had this Tuesday as sort of preview of the Women's Football World Cup. The Koché parade took place here, showing the approach of its founder: democratic couture.


With outfits ranging from street costume, nicely structured, to the fluid silhouettes of 90s vampires, romantic bald heroines.


We will note that the equality is everywhere respected, as well on the podium, with mixed faces, than in the audience.


How to reconcile luxury and the popular? Answers at Koché, where sewing juggles with the friendly streetwear. The collection opens with a carmin tailoring, immediately followed by a mandarin velvet, which composes both fluid nighties and joggings.


There are gigantic hats, embroidery and rhinestones trusting elegant tuxedos, and always these games of trolls, with ruffles and volumes; shaped by sneakers laced, rugby polos, technical leggings ... and other pieces from the (very popular) collaboration with Nike.


The alliance between the two worlds is consecrated by an incredible openwork dress, where lace flowers embroider between them sports bibs from different origins.






Rochas


Imaxtree Photos


Transparent organza trench coat, corsages, and bras trapped in a negligee ... Do not be fooled by the deceptively wise aesthetics of this collection erotico-girly for autumn-winter 2019-2020 ...


Inspired by The Red Shoes (controversial horror movie in which a cameraman murders women), Simone Rocha claims to have slipped into the skin of a voyeur to make this parade.


The talented Alessandro Dell'Acqua offered us a trip back in time by keeping our feet on the ground with colorblock pieces. True to the style that made its reputation, Rochas unveiled a collection of glamor, the one that makes you dream of it and which has made the glory of the films of the famous director Hitchcock.


The Rochas woman wants to be mysterious and elegant. The designer chose a classic cloakroom to add his paw by working on the color. At each chapter, a new tone. Electric yellow combined with a deep black, leopard prints, cream to soften the whole. The detail that caught our attention is the buckle shell at the ends of sandals and pumps. Once again this season, the heels are meant to be mini for a confident and elegant look.






Kenzo


Photos by Kenzo


Quilted and reversible jackets and parkas, large colored knit, vests with pockets ... The adventurous spirit reigns over the Kenzo Homme collection fall-winter 2019-2020, whose parade features explorers who roam the podium, in a very dreamlike setting made from the colorful paintings of Pablo Amaringo.


The women's collection offers hiking outfits, where the alliance of fleece and nylon creates a volume and a soft drape. The result is a colorful cloakroom inspired by the Sino-Peruvian legacy of Humberto Leon, director of the label alongside Carol Lim.


The House presents for the first time its "running tiger" motif. Finally, the hypergraphic "K" motif echoes the Women's Spring-Summer 1992 collection and comes back in a two-tone version on skirts and dresses.


An innovation this season, the entire collection Memento N ° 4 will be available in stores all around the world the day after its presentation and on kenzo.com




#PFW19 #FallWinter #ReadyToWear #Paris #Fashion #Kenzo #Dior #MarineSerre #Koché #Jacquemus

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