• Shria Nene

New York Fashion Week F/W 19/20 Review - Part I

Updated: Feb 13, 2019

The New York Fashion Week started with known designers’ collections walking the runway – Ulla Johnson, Nicole Miller, Jonathan Cohen, Tadashi Shoji and Tom Ford, to name a few.

Tom Ford worked it on the runway in satins, velvets, silks and fur. He chose a colour palette that comprised of greys, purples, browns and greens, as well as blacks and whites with pastel tones. These sure did exude exuberance in the rich fabrics. With Tom Ford, one ought to expect the runway looks to be edgy, thereby differentiating him from the others! The fur hats, and the chain details in evening gowns and accessories literally screamed “Tom Ford!!!” The spotlight was also on slick buns, smoky eyes and silver heels.

Ulla Johnson showed a strong affinity to earthy tones, high necklines and slicked back hair. Her collection symbolised “Femininity” like that of a wood nymph. With a strong colour palette ranging from rust tones to blues, yellow ochre, and browns there was a lot of drama in the prints and sleeves of the garments. Voluminous sleeves (bell, leg-o-mutton, puffed, bishop and cuffs) in various lengths made a strong statement on the runway. The garments were in solid colours and beautiful nature-inspired prints, and the accessories complemented the garments. The bags, in the same colour palette, were bohemian with fringes, beads and prints in quirky shapes. The show also focused on strong accessories like statement earrings, chunky rings and bangles/bracelets, complex braids and earth-toned eye makeup.

Kate Spade, Cushnie and Chiara Boni made their presence felt on the runway on Friday.

The models walked the runway with Kate Spade’s signature accessory – the bag! There was a varied colour palette ranging from yellows, purples, greens, maroon, lavender and browns to animal prints and textures! Most of the outfits were complimented with turbans in matching or contrasting colours. Also, there were lots of variations in the sleeves and draped necklines. Pairing printed garments with printed handbags is a risky thing to pull off and Kate Spade did it in great style! The garments and handbags complemented each other beautifully.

If Ulla Johnson’s collection was an ode to earthy femininity, Cushnie defied these norms with minimalistic and strong looks. Their runway looks spelled “Strength” in every way. The colour palette of bright and deep reds, blacks, deep purples and bold blues. An element of surprise was the otherwise demure and feminine lavender, tailored in strong silhouettes, and edgy necklines, reflecting great couture competency! These looks were complimented with minimal makeup with a particular focus on defined cheeks and long column earrings.

And how can we forget La Petite Robe! Chiara Boni wowed us with a luxurious collection. A beautiful colour palette of blacks, bold purples, yellow ochres, violets and maroons was complimented with velvets, tweeds and silks. We absolutely admired the mask-hats and matching handbags! The makeup focused on red lips that matched the designer’s aesthetic and blended with the style and strength of the garments. The hairstyles were strongly reminiscent of the 50’s, with the elegant and chic updos.

Saturday saw a range of designers rocking the runway with their different aesthetics! Christian Siriano, Brandon Maxwell, Jeremy Scott and Longchamp were some of the few names in this list.

Jeremy Scott strongly showcased a rebellious streak in his show. The use of graphic print (read catchy words) in a relatively achromatic palette garnered a lot of attention. ‘Couture’sque silhouettes, hair fairly resembling ‘Cruella-DeVil-meets-Sia’, and whimsical accessories were the highlights of the show. Along with the graphic printed shoes, the makeup focused largely on eyes (graphic black eyeliner and nude lips).

Strongly contradicting Jeremy’s show was Christian Siriano. He rocked the feminine silhouettes with beautiful colours, like teal, shades of grey, blue and purple, black and white. There was a lot of volume, dominantly seen in shoulders, sleeves, and waist. Opaque fabrics teamed with brightly coloured transparent ones added an element of mystery to the overall look.

What more can we expect in the coming days of the New York Fashion Week?

Watch this space for more reviews!

#NewYorkFashionWeek #NYFW #TomFord #ChristianSiriano #KateSpade

#Cushnie #JeremyScott #LaPetiteRobe #ChiaraBoni #UllaJohnson

Image Source - WGSN

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