Haute Couture Week SS19 Review
Welcome to the show- held at the Centre Pompidou, in a large warehouse styled room with dark floors swarming in glitter.. or actually, wait- they are Swarovski Crystals! The models enter onto the runway, starting off the 58 look show, strutting down then turning into a large open squared seating arrangement and then back out onto the runway.
The show starts off with some short sexy cocktail looks: dresses, tops and miniskirts. The color palette consisting mostly of black & white, but there are some embellished pieces- with embroidery, sequins, feathers, and floral prints. All the leggy looks are paired with black western-styled boots, giving an edgy and night-time vibe.
As the show progresses, we get to see more of the Valli that we know and love.. Bigger than life tulle dresses, sleeves and bows. Baby doll cuts and ruffles, at their best. Many of the dresses feature a high-low cut, showing a lot of leg in the front and following with a long train of fabric in the back. A selection of the looks are paired with a Fez hat, an ode to Saint Laurent.
The show ends with a beautiful true red ruffled take on a bridal look, with a higher hem in the front. The gown was paired with a sheer red veil with petals.
Ralph & Russo
The first and only British label elected by the Chambre Syndical to be on the official Haute Couture schedule, and we can all see why. After not being chosen to dress Megan Markle for her wedding last year, Ralph and Russo are not letting that stop them from delivering looks that everyone wishes they could afford to wear on a daily basis.
Where sombrero meets sun hat: the show is celebrating Latin American femininity, and inspired by La Doña, Maria Felix- a famous Mexican movie star known for her empowering persona, sensuality, and free spirited sense of fashion.
The collection features a palette of silvers, blacks and pop colors, from acid green to mint green, and from fuchsia to bubble gum to soft pastel pink. There are 54 looks, various of iridescent fringed skirts, thousands of crystals on tulle, layered tassels, embroidered and bejeweled coiled snakes- all in effort to portray a story of the Golden Age of Hollywood.
The collection ends with a change of pace- the run way clears and lights dim to signal a change.. out walks model Elsa Hosk, to close the show in an elegantly embellished, off-the-shoulder, white silk baroque style wedding gown. The gown is covered in crystals, silk floss and metallic thread work. On her head is a beaded floral headpiece attached to a satin organza, tulle veil.
Zuhair Murad, a celebrity red carpet favorite, killed it this season with something very different than the rest. Murad brings us beautiful metallic mermaid, silvery-white pleats, and ultraviolet shimmer. With a color palette of dark blue hues, purples and pinks.
Using the hashtag #AquaticSerenade online- we can see that Murad’s 59 looks are inspired by 1980’s mermaid dresses, the richness of the oceanic world and where the sea meets the night sky. The gowns are over-the-top with sparkles and shine, embellished by sequins and beading on beautiful silk tulles and chiffons. The models have slick back hair, lots of glitter and strappy heels. Many of gowns feature low neck lines, and high slits, showing lots of a leg- a common theme this season.
The show ends with a breathtaking silvery-white bridal look. The gown was overflowing with crystals and beading, and netted at the top and sleeves. The veil was even beautifully embellished to match the gown perfectly, and attached to a crown.
Pierpaolo Piccioli talks about bringing contemporary values to Valentino, saying that this collection was very special to him because he wanted to find a way to bring the romanticism of the house to the 21st century.
His muses were Black woman, attempting to bring them into the light of the couture world- stating that couture was always done for white women, but he wanted to change that perspective. The show was held at Hotel de Rotschild, an intentional choice for the statement on white privilege.
The collection had a garden party theme, featuring lots of florals and bright colors- attempting to continue to explore the stereotypes of Haute Couture. The gowns were of dramatic and voluminous shapes. The statement color palette consisted of bright terracottas, yellows, pinks, reds, greens, browns and lilacs. The models wore a beautiful eye-catching look consisting of feathery petals attached to their eyelashes.
The show concluded with model Naomi Campbell, in the show stopper ‘Chocolat Dhalia’- a sheer black ruffled top paired with a ruffled skirt. This was the first time the model had walked for Valentino in 14 years. A great way to end a 65 look show, that featured a cast of majority black models.
Thanks for reading and come back soon for more fashion updates!